Unless you’ve been sleeping under rock, you’re probably aware of the strained relations between Cuba and the United States. Because of the arduous history, laws and travel permissions between the countries have experienced a lot of variance over time, and Cuba remains a mysterious country to many Americans.
I was completely surprised when my mom agreed to go with me. Not because of the destination, but because we’ve never traveled alone together. Little did I know how amazing of a travel companion she would be!
Know Before you Go
The tips below are based on my personal experience during the summer of 2019. Certainly do your own research and check for updates before visiting.
We bought our flights through JetBlue. Despite what you may think, and contrary to the ways through which our government attempts to complicate Cuban travel, the entire process was quite simple.
I purchased round trip airfare from Raleigh to Havana (with a layover in FLL) for $430. When buying through the airline website, you must designate one of twelve travel categories. Note: touristic travel is not currently permitted for Americans (e.g. no more American cruise ships), therefore I recommend selecting Support for the Cuban People as your category.
Support for the Cuban People is exactly what it sounds like. Your itinerary should be based around activities that support Cubans (and more specifically, not their government). Because you can be audited for up to 5 years following your trip, it’s best to curate a makeshift agenda to help you stick to approved activities. It sounds intimidating but it shouldn’t be! The U.S. Department of State has even supplied a list of restricted businesses you can review before traveling.
Another pre-entry requirement is the purchase of Cuban health insurance. Fortunately, this is already included in the cost of your airfare. Easy.
Lastly, on the day of your U.S. departure, you will need to purchase a visa at your airline’s ticket counter. These cost $50/piece and are good for 30 days. The process took less than 5 minutes.
Typical Cuban wages are under $30/month, so on-the-ground purchases and donations are greatly appreciated (and needed). Typical hygienic items like toothpaste, deodorant, tampons, socks, and beyond, are expensive and often difficult to obtain. We brought several items for donation, and I recommend you do the same. A quick online search will help you find drop-off locations.
Despite the poor economic conditions, Cubans are incredibly giving and generous. Instead of staying in a hotel, consider booking a casa particular (another way to directly support the locals). These are private, family-owned houses or apartments, reservable through Airbnb. Our host was genuinely caring, and spent a lot of time with us, making sure we were comfortable and knowledgeable about the neighborhood.
While I’m on the subject of money, note that US credit and debit cards will not work in Cuba. This means you need to bring enough cash to cover the duration of your trip. It’s also best to convert your cash to euros before visiting. Why? Because exchanging USD’s will cost you a hefty 10% fee, whereas other currencies only charge 3%. All you need to do is visit your local bank prior to traveling, withdraw euros, and then exchange the euros to CUC (Cuban pesos) at the airport in Havana. When leaving, exchange your remaining CUC back to euros at the Havana airport, and then exchange the euros to dollars at your home bank. I promise it’s less complicated than it sounds.
WiFi exists in Cuba, but not in a way that Americans are used to. Networks are far and few in between, and access is only issued through prepaid WiFi cards (which by the way, are sometimes difficult to locate, expensive, and only grant one hour of use). Most people can’t access internet at home, instead frequenting public squares that seem to be inexplicably networked. Because of the lack of internet, I was glad to have done much of the trip planning in advance.
You may be wondering about Cuban cuisine. Cuban food is not known for being anything spectacular but we were generally pleased by our selections. We tried ropa viejo (which translates to ‘old clothes’ in English). Although it sounds unappetizing, it was ahhmazing (with two h’s). I loved Cuban coffee, mojitos, and the opportunity to drink as many micheladas as possible. Another standout were Cuban breakfasts which are generous, inexpensive, and beautifully presented.
Must-do’s during a visit to Cuba
Ride in a classic American car. Because of what became a long standing ban on foreign vehicle imports, the every day Cuban vehicle remains oldies like 1950’s and 60’s Chevy’s, Buick’s, and Ford’s. We went for two different convertible rides (sorry, not sorry).
Spend an evening at the wonderful Fabrica del Arte. This is an art gallery and club that has live performances, booze and coffee bars, a restaurant, and dance classes. We loved it.
Visit some of Hemingway’s hot spots. Ernest Hemingway had a fixation with Havana, and consequently lived there for nearly 20 years, where he wrote some of his best novels like The Old Man and the Sea. He also spent a lot of time getting drunk at La Floridita, pictured below.
Join a free city walking tour. Walking tours are one of the best ways to learn a city or country’s history (and layout). I really enjoy taking them at the beginning of a trip. Be sure to tip your guide for their time since they aren’t formally paid.
If you’re into history, visit Revolution Square. This is the site of many historic political rallies where figures like Fidel Castro and Che Guevara laid heavy influence over mass congregations of Cubans.
Admire the vibrant street art, which seems to be practically everywhere.
Enjoy sunset from the Hotel Nacional de Cuba. It was a bit crowded for our liking, but the hotel is considered a national monument and provides beautiful views of the sea.
Walk the Malecon. If you want to immerse yourself among everyday Cubans enjoying their evenings, stroll the seawall. You’ll see children flying kites, men fishing, couples attempting romantic photo shoots, and people blasting music from boomboxes while snacking on treats.
Chill out in the country town of Vinales. It can take 3+ hours to get there, so plan to spend at least 1-2 nights. We stayed in a casa particular with gorgeous views of the valley and its mogotes.
Learn about tobacco production and smoke a cigar dipped in honey. I’m not a smoker but had to try it – I’ll admit it was tasty. Smoking a cigar with my mom was hilarious and something I won’t forget! Americans can bring up to 100 cigars home as gifts for friends and colleagues.
Would I recommend Cuba as a travel destination? Absolutely. Does it take a bit of extra effort to make it happen? Yes. Is it rocket science? No. This trip showed me that my mom is a trooper and bad ass travel partner. And that Cuba, while a bit rough around the edges, is rich in culture and natural beauty. It’s entirely worth experiencing for yourself.
