Hello, International Travel: We Meet Again

I think it was February when I cracked and purchased a round trip ticket to Guatemala. At that point, I had no clue I’d have COVID immunity at the time of the trip (April 2021). Had I realized, I would’ve planned to travel for longer than one week. Either way, a shorter trip to a destination I’d previously visited and had familiarity with felt like a safe way to dip my toes back into international travel.

So, why immune? Not only am I now fully vaccinated, I managed to catch COVID within the same 24 hours as my first Pfizer shot, in March. I’m thankful to have had a very mild case. It was terrible luck… but silver lining, it gave me a major confidence boost heading abroad – hella antibodies!

The timing had me stressed. To enter Guatemala, you have to present a negative COVID test taken within 72 hours of the flight. But the CDC advises that even if recovered and no longer contagious, you can test positive for up to three months post-COVID as there are still remnants in your system. I exhaled a MAJOR non-contagious sigh of relief when the test came back negative. Leh-go! Side note, I had also purchased travel insurance with COVID-related coverage in case I needed to cancel. Highly recommend if you’re planning international travel this year.

American Airlines wasn’t allowing online check-in since I had to show my passport and a hard copy of the negative test result at the airport. I went just a few minutes earlier than usual and check-in was no problem. Several hours and one connection later, I arrived in Guatemala City. A Guatemalan friend of mine hooked me up with his driver and another hour later, I was checked in to my hotel in Antigua.

So, how are people treating the pandemic down there? Just like in the US, attitudes differ between regions. In Antigua, everyone and their mom was wearing a mask. Most businesses are doing temperature checks and providing a pump of hand sanitizer upon entry. I really felt the sense of communal awareness in Antigua – people are looking out for the immunocompromised by covering their faces with such compliance.

On the other hand, at Lake Atitlan (San Marcos, to be specific), masks are nowhere to be seen with the exception of service industry professionals. But the culture is COMPLETELY different at the lake. It’s a very laidback, “natural” existence and life mainly happens outside – I’m talking open air restaurants, outdoor bathrooms and showers (at least where I stayed), plus all of the activities on the water. I suspect the emphasis on an outdoor lifestyle + the fresh air correlate with lower concern for mask-wearing. Not sure.

Two days before my return to the US, I had my hotel assist me with finding a local clinic providing COVID testing. The test cost 345 Quetzales ($45) and I picked up the hard copy of my negative result one hour later. When you check-in at the airport, you show the result, and you’re good to board. It’s really all quite simple. I feel that flying is cleaner than ever at this point. If all passengers have tested negative within 72 hours of boarding, the likelihood of virus floating around is greatly reduced. Masks are required by law on airplanes. Additionally, the requirement of a test is going to deter all sorts of people from booking a trip in the first place. Personally, I felt completely fine on the flights.

Otherwise my travel experience was completely normal… if not better than usual. I didn’t actively try to make friends but it happened so easily, whether at a bar for sunset, at check-in, or on the bus. Everyone seemed to be so embracing of vacation and full of life after such an awful 2020. I met several working professionals (mostly Americans) who were in Guatemala with their laptops, taking advantage of the remote work opportunity. And Guatemalans themselves are such kind people. I’m sure they are grateful that tourism has resumed, albeit slowly. I’m happy to have been able to contribute to the economy of a country that holds such a special place in my heart.

I visited in early 2019, as well, and did some amazing hiking, conquering the likes of Acatenango and Indian Nose. This time I chose to switch it up, spending 4 days and 3 nights at a yoga retreat. I slept in the coziest treehouse with its own hammock, ate organic, vegetarian meals, and took two yoga classes a day. And the Yoga Forest is quite a hike from town, so needless to say, I got a serious workout over the few days I was there. Cleansed to the fullest.

I drank rooftop mojitos and micheladas in Antigua. I spent a bougie night with a hotel credit in Panajachel, swimming in an infinity spa and watching gorgeous Macaws in the trees. I exchanged travel stories with strangers on a collectivo. I jumped off cliffs into turquoise lake water, volcanoes dotting the background. I got drunk on red wine with new friends at a fancy steakhouse. And I spent my last day tanning by the pool with a bowl of ceviche in Guatemala City. It’s incredible what a single week away can do for the mind, body, and spirit.