Santa Teresa, Costa Rica Touched my Heart

I don’t really remember deciding on or planning this trip. That may sound odd, but I often have an intention or purpose for choosing a destination, and put a fair amount of time into my research. But the motive behind this one isn’t something I can share, because I don’t know why it happened. It just did. And my planning was haphazard at best. The experience became a therapeutic gift to self and everything I didn’t know I needed.

I went on a Costa Rican road trip with my family in December 2018, visiting San Jose, Tamarindo, and the towns nearby the Arenal Volcano. We had a great time but I wasn’t sold on CR, and felt as though I hadn’t fully connected. After all, Guatemala and El Salvador were to follow on that trip, countries far rougher around the edges, and places where I experienced meaningful challenges. I needed more information on Costa Rica. I needed to travel alone to gain a deeper perspective.

My route consisted of flying a Tuesday through Tuesday (cheapest flights) into Liberia and home from the capital, San Jose. I spent my first night in Playas del Coco, which I wouldn’t recommend, and then bussed to a dusty little beach town at the bottom tip of the Nicoya Peninsula. Hello, Santa Teresa!

The town is far from Costa Rica’s two international airports, making it challenging to access. This attracts visitors who are willing to go the extra distance, to venture a bit off the beaten path. Santa Teresa is hip but not in an artificial way like, say, Tulum or Bali. You won’t find mega all-inclusives here. Its authenticity means that the people visiting might just be searching for something deeper.

On my first afternoon, I met 4 women also traveling alone. Despite our subtle differences and backgrounds, the group of us naturally joined forces, and proceeded to hang out quite a bit over the week. From surfing, to yoga, walks and talks, and group dinners (even a celebration for my birthday!), I feel that I learned something from each of these gals. It was refreshing to be surrounded by independent, like-minded women, each on their own unique journey.

I experienced so much kindness. I lost my debit card on day one and soon ran out of cash, but was fine because friends stepped up to cover me until I was able to pay them back. Related, my surf instructor assured me that it was fine to pay him in cash when I could, which wasn’t until a few days after the lesson. My hostel-mates learned of my birthday and sang to me. A friend let me shower in her hotel room during a layover in San Jose. Constant warmth and a pura vida mentality were omnipresent.

The girls and I went to a magic show one night, followed by an amazing vegan dinner buffet and wine. A few people pulled out guitars and started jamming. The singer’s rendition of Sam Smith’s “Not the Only One” really got me in my feels. It’s incredible how things as simple as music, a full belly, and a summer night near the beach blend into instant happiness.

Santa Teresa’s jungle beach is lush, to say the least. Howler monkeys, exotic birds, and spiders rule supreme. The mosquitoes are vicious. Dogs are mostly off-leash, running around everywhere (and really living their best lives!). The shore is expansive, the waves are perfect for surfing, and the sunsets are so beautiful you just might cry. It seems as if the whole town gathers each night to watch the sun go down. A glorious rainbow appeared on my birthday. A kiss from the gods.

Forget make up, hair dryers, and under garments. You’re going to want to feel the earth below your feet here, allow the sun to bronze your skin, and be one with the elements. I naturally woke up at 6:30AM each morning feeling refreshed and excited for the day. I felt more comfortable in my skin in Santa Teresa than I do at home. Maybe I am a beach person, after all…

Oh, and the food? It’s fantastic. Everything I ate was locally sourced, fresh, and generally very healthy. This is the type of place where you feign for smoothie bowls, you consciously choose to eliminate or minimize your meat intake, and you may just order a spicy passionfruit margarita every day.

Instead of bussing all the way from Santa Teresa to San Jose to travel home, I learned of a quick flight from Tambor (a tiny town close to Santa Teresa) to the SJO airport. The flight on Green Airways was priced at $99 and showcased gorgeous views. The 8-person passenger plane was the smallest I’ve ever been on! It wasn’t at all scary and it remains a big highlight of the trip.

All of this to say, if you’re looking for a super special corner of Costa Rica and would prefer avoiding the traditional touristy crowds, I would recommend getting down to Santa Teresa. I guarantee you’ll love it.